Today is day two of a six day break in Port Campbell for Lynda and I after two weeks of AFL and NFL grand final tension.
It’s a beautiful place and even better after the school holidays when it feels like you’ve got the place to yourself.
Yesterday was a visit to what’s left of the Twelve Apostles. The cliffs and Apostles themselves are still spectacular despite the erosion and the lookouts are awesome.
This morning was the Port Campbell Discovery Walk, rated moderate with some small but challenging stairs and about 6km return.
It has lovely views and there was a sign that explained a bit of history, namely where Port Campbell got its name.
It was derived from Captain Alexander Campbell who was in charge of a whaling ship heading up the coast from Portland.
He apparently came across some bad weather and combined with treacherous seas, decided to pull in to the first break in the cliffs, that being the cove of Port Campbell.
Lynda pointed out that he of course was a Campbell and that I was in all truth a Campbell and questioned whether we could be related.
I know both my Scottish grandfathers were born in the 1860’s/1870’s so a ship captain sailing around Victoria’s coast in 1840 could feasibly be my great grandfather?
Lynda suggested we go to the local museum and see what they had of interest.
We found some history of when the ship made it to shore in 1840 but it would be another thirty years before the port would be established.
I was hoping for more about the initial journey from Portland and when they struck trouble.
The curator Janine took us out the back to where there were piles of what looked like manuscripts, much of it in beautiful ancient script, clearly written by a fountain pen.
Janine said there was too much to handle and offered us the opportunity to have a look and photograph anything of interest.
That’s when we found this extraordinary excerpt from Captain Campbell’s log book.
Captain’s log, 9th August 1840. Position 38 degrees 37’ 0” S and 142 degrees 59’ 0 “ E longitude.
This weather sucks but fortunately I am on a secure mattress with a cup of tea and a shortbread mother mad me upon my departure from Edinburgh. Not many left now.
My 2IC McDonald is at the helm steering us through this soup. Twenty foot waves at least and no signs of whales, just enormous cliffs to our left.
McDonald is a good sailor albeit a belligerent one. The McDonald and Campbell clans have a long and brutal history which he seems to cling mindlessly onto. I’ve spent many a frustrating hour suggesting he move on but after his last load of disparaging remarks towards me I had him lashed fifty times.
We lost our bosun Andrews last night. Poor chap was trying to repair some loose panels on the hull and he got swept out. I threw him the piece of timber he was using and wished him the best.
Waves intensifying now as is the odour from the deck where the great unwashed have been unleashing their insides. I must get someone to clean that up immediately. My steak and kidney pie has just arrived so I’ll take a short break.
Back again. The pastry was a bit on the thin side but the shiraz was lovely.
I’ve just been informed that there is some enormous rocks jutting out from the sea’s bed approximately ten nautical miles from here.
McDonald has counted twelve and suggested we call them The Twelve Apostles after something in the Bible. I prefer ‘The Scots’, after our cricket team of twelve players, but The Apostles does have a dignified ring to it I guess.
I congratulated McDonald on his choice of names and gave him a dripping sandwich to celebrate.
Time for bed and fingers crossed McDonald can drag us to safety somewhere. Thank god I brought that extra blanket.
12th August 1840
Well it’s been a hell of few days since we hit land. I had to skip breakfast a couple of times in order to help McDonald navigate the ship through some rather large reefs.
McDonald poor chap can’t seem to get dry and appears to have scurvy. I told him if he wanted some fruit and vegetables to just call me, but it seems he was too intent on steering the ship in order to save the crew. A mighty effort indeed.
A minor miracle happened upon arrival here at the newly named Port Campbell. Our bosun Andrews jolly well turned up! He said the timber panel floated and enabled him to catch successive waves into the cove!
Once he removed all the splinters from his unprotected areas he then planed down the panel and is now surfing the waves here almost all day! He calls it a body board, but I doubt it will catch on.
Just a sec, door is knocking….It was McDonald asking me to join the lads for a drink. I don’t drink but the ship’s vermin do like to over indulge in their homemade scrumpy.
Sorry…it was McDonald again urging me to check out the bonfire the lads have made.
Back again. I can’t believe the crew have made a special bonfire in tribute to me, their Captain. The likeness is incredible.
It’s an effigy of me, nailed to a cross and placed in the centre of the bonfire so that I burn slowly from the feet up. Now that’s respect.
I shall retire now, by chance to dream of conquering the open seas again.
An extraordinary piece of history I’m sure you’ll agree.
