Hotel Kooraku, Okayama 7.30pm Tuesday 12th Jan 2017

Below is a statue that sits outside Okayama station. It’s Momotaro, otherwise known as Peach Boy, and according to legend he emerged from the stone of a peach and backed up by a dog, a monkey, and a pheasant, defeated a three-eyed, three-toed, people eating monster…..of course he did.

Had a false start today. Our seamless trip was at risk of unravelling and it wasn’t made any easier with the news of David Bowie’s passing. We saw it on TV when we got on the ferry this morning but because there was no English we didn’t know what had happened to him until we got home tonight. Playing him now, and although personally, I wasn’t a huge fan he was a superstar who influenced millions of my generation. For such a huge talent he never took himself too seriously and will be sadly missed.

This morning we headed to the shipping town of Uno on a bus that took approx. an hour. Before that, we grabbed coffee and snacks at Doutor, a chain in Japan that has the best customer service I have ever seen. Metronomic is the only way I can explain how brilliant these kids are that serve you. I wish I could video it and take it to the WA Tourism Board as how it should be done! I’m sure you won’t disagree my WA friends!

Everything was on schedule at Uno and we hopped aboard a ferry for a 20 minute trip to Naoshima. We have been dreaming about this for 12 months so we were pumped! Got there and they tell us it’s closed…not the Island, just every art museum on the Island. Today was the first day of 4 when all maintenance is carried out! We were utterly deflated and the guide suggested we go back to Uno and head to another Island (there are 3 art Islands, Naoshima being the biggest).

I should have picked up there was something wrong when as we arrived at Naoshima we immediately recognized one of the major artworks, the red sea pumpkin had scaffolding around it.

So it was back to Uno and we realized there was a sign saying all 3 Islands were closed! It was small but it was there. Shattered, we pondered, then decided to go back to Naoshima. We had come this far so stuff it. Even if we couldn’t get into galleries we really just wanted to see the outdoor sculptures and the scenery which isn’t unlike Wilson’s Promontory. We had about 90 mins to kill so we went and bought some snacks and decided to see a couple of other sculptures on the foreshore. One in particular was amazing, a fish made from junk. I loved it so pardon some self-indulgence here.

We also visited this massive cd/video/book place and Lynda bought a little capsule from a capsule machine. There are millions of these capsule machines in Japan that for $2-$3 a pop spit out little “nic-naccy” figurines and collectables.

Lynda bought a sumo one and we were mucking around waiting for the ferry so we started our own installations.

So finally we got back to Naoshima about 12.30pm…take 2. We hired some bikes for $3 each and took off. Started with some scenic views and back streets with immaculate gardens in all the houses.

Then we rode/walked up a big hill and was stopped by a gate. Lynda dropped the bike and continued heading uphill on an unmarked bush track. Given the risk of being bitten by the notorious Japanese Viper was high, I allowed my beautiful partner to go first because if she was to sustain a bite, I would be able to sprint into town using my athletic prowess and seek medical attention. Yes, the Island of Naoshima was closed and my partner may have perished in the time it took me to complete this pointless exercise, however, it’s the thought that counts don’t you think?

Anyway, the track was fantastic and exhilarating over about a km. At the top, we got our first glimpse of the red sea pumpkin’s sister, the yellow pumpkin. We rode down the mountain and got to the sculpture and it was magnificent as far as objects d’art go. There were others there also in a park right on this beautiful pristine beach.

This next one was a ripper. It’s 3 stainless steel squares all balanced on a point of the square. When we arrived I wasn’t exactly blown away but whilst looking at it I wasn’t sure if I was feeling nauseous or about to faint because I could have sworn I saw these huge slabs of metal sway in the breeze. Not a lot, but really gently back and forth, enough to unsettle you. Each of the squares on closer inspection had these little wheels that looked like aircraft undercarriages and were engineered to just move enough to freak you out. Brilliant design and looked beautiful with the backdrop.

Ironically we found an actual sea pumpkin on this deserted beach. Who woulda thunk it?

Anyway, that was Naoshima. Despite a false start, we had a magical day and some great exercise on those 1-speed bikes I might add. Would love to come back possibly even in summer and have a swim as well as see the galleries. Stunning place and we headed back to Uno and a bus home, a quick feed of ramin and we are on the road again tomorrow to Hemeji which is about 20 mins on the bullet train.

Getting closer to the end. Reality beckons so will make the most of the next few days.  Hope all’s well. Goodnight. Cheers Willow & Lynda.